Treću godinu za redom odlazimo u dolinu Neretve, točnije u Opuzen na njihov Opuzen Film Festival. Moram vam reć, znaju tamo dobro poist i popit.
Pošto se tik pred odlazak rodio ovaj blog, morali smo skinuti sa našeg popisa i njihov specijalitet, neretvanski brudet od jegulja i žaba.
Kontaktirali smo našu dragu prijateljicu Tinu Ključe Mihaljević da nas spoji s najboljima. Tina se dala na posao i uputila nas u restoran Đuđa i Mate gdje nas je ugostio Jure Taslak.
For a third year in a row we went to a valley of Neretva, to be exact to Opuzen for their Opuzen Film Festival. I have to say, they sure know how to eat and drink well.
Since this blog was born right before we went there, we had to cross of our list their specialty too, Neretva's fish stew made from eels and frogs.
We contacted our dear friend Tina Ključe Mihaljević to connect us with the best. Tina did her job and told us to go to restaurant Đuđa i Mate where our host was Jure Taslak.
Odmaknuli smo se malo od Opuzena do Vida, prekrasnog naselja nastalog na mjestu nekadašnjeg rimskog grada Narone. Preko puta našeg cilja, restorana koji će nam pomoći s receptom za taj famozni brodet, nalazi se Arheološki muzej Narona, izgrađen na samim ostacima antičkog foruma. Svakako bih preporučila posjetiti, prije ili poslije ručka. Gušt je isti.
We got a bit away from Opuzen, for this, to Vid, beautiful village placed where once was Roman city Narona. Across our destination, the restaurant that is going to help us with this famous stew, is archeological museum Narona, built on the ruins of ancient Forum.
I would definitely recommend visiting it before or after lunch. It's the same pleasure.
Ajmo mi na žabe i jegulje.
Đuđa i Mate nudi sve. Od smještaja, izleta, fotosafarija, do onoga što nas najviše zanima. Gastronomija. Poznati po tradicionalnoj neretvanskoj kuhinji, nisu nas razočarali. Oduševljeni prijemom i ljubaznošću domaćina, zamolili smo ih da nas puste u svoju kuhinju. Pošto ćemo u Zagrebu teško doći do pravih neretvanskih žaba i jegulja, ovo je bila savršena prilika da saznamo kako se zapravo pravi brudet radi. Iako kažu, svako mjesto u dolini Neretve ima svoj recept za žabe i jegulje, i svaki se u svoga kune da je jedini pravi, mi ćemo s vama podijeliti ovaj. Pa ajmo.
Recept:
0,5 kg jegulje
9 žaba
100 g luka
lovor
sol
rajčica koncentrat
kvasina (ocat)
ljute papričice
Da se razumijemo, količine su odokativne, koliko sam uspjela pohvatiti što je gospođa spretnim rukama radila.
U pravu neretvansku teču, stavila je ulje na kojem je prodinstala luk, posolila ga da omekša. S lukom se dinsta ljuta papričica i lovorov list. Kad je luk omekšao, dodala je koncentrat rajčice, podlila malo vodom. Na to ide riba.
Let's move on to eels and frogs.
Đuđa i Mate offer everything. From rooms, daytrips, photosafaries to what we are interested in most. Gastronomy. Famous for their traditional Neretva's cuisine, they did not disappoint. Overwhelmed with the reception and kindness of our hosts we asked them if they would let us in their kitchen. Since it would be hard to find Neretva's eels and frogs in Zagreb, this was the perfect opportunity to find out how this stew is made. Even though they say that every village in valley of Neretva has its recipe for frogs and eels, and each one swears theirs is the true one, we are going to share this one with you. So let's do it.
Ingredients:
Half a kilo of eels
9 frogs
100 g of onion
Laurel leafs
Salt
Tomato concentrate,
Vinegar
Hot peppers
Let's be clear, these quantities are estimated from what I managed to catch while the lady chefs' skillful hands were working.
Into a true Neretva's teča (shallow bowl), she added oil in which she sautéed onions and salted them so they'd get soft. Hot peppers and laurel leaf are sautéing alongside onions. When the onions got soft she added tomato concentrate and a bit of water. And on that goes the fish.
Jegulje su još plivale dok smo došli, vještim potezima, u tren oka je naša bila očišćena. Kako je jegulja ljepša kad je izrezana na "zvona". zamolila sam da nam pokažu kako se čisti jegulja na taj način. Naime, znam da se inače zareže dužinom i izvuče utroba, no pošto oni zarežu jegulju prvo na zvona i žele da ostane na kosti, svako zvono se posebno čisti. Srećom, ovo nisam morala ja raditi jer mislim da bi trajalo vječno. U kuhinji restorana, to je gotovo dok trepneš.
When we first arrived, the eels were still swimming, with skillful moves they were cleaned in a blink of an eye. Because eels look prettier if they are cut like "bells" I asked them to show us how to clean it that way. Otherwise, usual way of cleaning eels is to cut it lengthwise and pull out the guts, but they first cut the eel to "bells" and want it to stay on bones, so they clean each bell separately. Luckily, I didn't have to do this, otherwise it would last for an eternity. In the restaurant kitchen it was finished in the blink of an eye.
So, eel in the teča, poured in some water and added salt. After 15 minutes, vinegar is poured in. Eel needs 35 minutes to cook, and just before it's done, frogs are added. I was told that is the case with fresh frogs, but the imported ones have to be cooked longer, almost from the beginning with eels.
I to je to. Čini se poprilično jednostavno, no umijeća ima itekoliko. I još jedan važan dio. Prilikom kuhanja, jelo se ne miješa, već se teča okreće.
Kažu u neretvanskim selima, dobar brudet je onaj koji kad se okrene na sturu (trsku), ostane na sturi.
And that's it. It looks pretty simple, but there is a lot of skill in it. One more important part. During the cooking the meal isn't mixed, but teča is turned.
They say in villages around Neretva that the good stew is the one which, if you turn it on a stura, stays on a stura (reed).
Naš je bome bio dobar, tradicionalno poslužen s palentom.
E sad, moji dojmovi. Prvi puta u životu sam probala i žabe i jegulju. Osobno, mislim da je to kao i sa filekima, ili voliš ili ne voliš. Moram priznati da su mi žabe bile odlične, samo sam se jako morala truditi da ne mislim na to da jedem žabe. Pojela sam ih sve. Brudet je bio pikantan i fino začinjen i uz čašu finog bijelog vina, išao je glatko.
Ours was really good, traditionally served with polenta.
Now, my impressions. For the first time in my life I tried frogs and eel. Personally, i think it's like fillets, you either like them or you don't. I have to admit I loved the frogs, I just had to try really hard to not to think of eating frogs. I ate all of them. Stew was spicy and well-seasoned and, with a glass of tasty white wine, went down smoothly.
Next thing I'd love to try in valley of Neretva? Fried frogs. What can I say, I'm on a roll. And a fox. She's on a list too. In any case, we'll see you next year with new recipes from Neretva.
Mali dodatak postu o jeguljama i žabama. Poveli su nas na vožnju lađom rijekom Norin koja je pritok Neretve. Moram priznati da čišću rijeku nisam vidjela. Sama priroda je prekrasna, i nekako je ispalo da sam tokom cijelog izleta progovorila možda tri rečenice, što je za mene lajavu, itekako čudno. Samo sam gledala i uživala. Zelenilo, bistra voda, razne ptice koje slijeću i polijeću, ma raj za dušu. Čuvajte nam dolinu Neretve, želimo joj se vraćati stalno i uživati u njenim ljepotama.
Little addition to eel and frog post. They took us on a boat ride on river Norin which is a tributary to Neretva. I have to admit I have never seen a cleaner river. The nature itself is beautiful, and somehow, during the whole trip I spoke maybe 3 sentences, which is for a chatty me really weird.
Greenery, clean, see-through water and birds flying up and down are heaven for a soul. Take care of valley of Neretva, we wish to come back all the time and enjoy it's beauty.
Hvala i našoj dragoj Tini koja nas je dovela do Đuđe i Mate.
Thank you to the lovely people in the restaurant Đuđa i Mate, you really enchanted us with your kindness and professionalism, and gave us unforgettable visit to Vid. See you next year if not sooner.
Also, thank you to our dear Tina who got us to Đuđa i Mate.
Prijevod/translation: Margareta Tilošanec
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